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Archive for the ‘Vintage Fabrics’ Category

Thread Ads Page 2

Vintage Thread Chart & Photo Gallery Thread Ads – Page 2 Beginning around 1900 the Corticelli kitten was a familiar logo in Corticelli thread ads. This appeared in McCall’s Magazine November 1904. This might have been the first or among the first of the Corticelli kitten ads. From Home Needlework Magazine, July 1900.    – Courtesy Shirley McElderry Corticelli kitten ad from Woman’s Home Companion, April 1902.   – Courtesy Shirley McElderry   Corticelli kitten ad from Home Needlework Magazine, April 1903.   – Courtesy Shirley McElderry   An appealing Corticelli kitten from the back cover of Home Needlework Magazine, June 1907.     – Courtesy Shirley McElderrry Corticelli kitten from Home Needlework Magazine, September 1914. This picture of serenity was in contrast to WWI which had just begun in Europe.     – Courtesy Shirley McElderry Nonotuck Silk Co.’s famous Corticelli brand spool silk as seen in Ladies Home Journal, March 1898. – Courtesy Shirley McElderry   Heminway & Sons Silk Co. ad from The Modern Priscilla, June 1907. Heminway would  merge in 1922 with Belding which owned Corticelli brand to form the Corticelli Silk Co.     – Courtesy Shirley McElderry A  line of sewing needs offered by jobbers Cooley, Biglow & Nichols, Sheldon’s Weekly Dry Goods Price List, 1871.   – Courtesy Anne Papworth A Barbour’s linen thread ad in Sheldon’s Weekly Dry Goods Price List, 1871.   – Courtesy Anne Papworth Bucilla and Corticelli were two of many companies offering crochet, tatting and knitting threads and instructions booklets with patterns for 10 cents and kits for 25 cents and up. These two ads were from Home Needlework, September 1916. – Courtesy Ellen Ambron Ward’s own brand — don’t we wish 50 cents would buy 12 large spools of thread today! From Montgomery Ward 1925 sale catalog. Two types of Brook’s Brothers thread were offered in Bloomindale’s 1886 catalog: waxed finish with the blue label and soft finish with the red label all for 50¢ per dozen!! George Clark and his brother were sole agents for their ONT [Our New Thread] thread which was wound on white spools. Note firm also carried Marshall’s linen threads. Ad from Bloomingdales 1886 catalog. Part of an ad for Belding Bros. silk threads which company guarantees won’t break. From Ladies Home Journal, August 1906.

Thread Ads

Vintage Thread Chart & Photo Gallery Thread Ads These ads for Cutter Sewing Silk and Barstow Thread were a page apart in the May 1895 Ladies Home Journal. Wonder how many thimbles were given away???   Part of a full-page ad by Belding Bros. for its silk thread. Best feature was the border of 96 actual-size spools of different color thread representing the Belding palette. From Elite Styles October 1913 which had great lithography to enhance textiles. Lily Thread from McCall’s Pattern Book summer 1948 – Courtesy Anne Papworth     American Thread Co. from Simplicity Pattern Book 1957 – Courtesy Anne Papworth (Top and bottom of ad) Gudbrod Bros.  silk thread from McCall’s Pattern Book fall 1954. – Courtesy Anne Papworth Part of a Belding Corticell thread ad from McCall’s Pattern Book fall 1954. – Courtesy Anne Papworth   Williston’s C.S.I. [combed Sea Island] thread which appeared in Sheldon’s Weekly Dry Goods Price List, 1871. – Courtesy Anne Papworth   J&P Coats large selection of thread sizes as advertised in E. Butterick & Co.’s Catalog, summer 1873. Two ads from the Clark family as seen in Sheldon’s Weekly Dry Goods Price List, 1871.   – Courtesy Anne Papworth

Vintage Fabric Collector’s Bias Tape & Notions Reference Chart

Click Here for the Bias Tape & Notions Reference Chart for the Vintage Fabric Collector.  The chart will appear in a new window.  If its too small, just click on the chart and it will get larger.  Remember, additions are welcomed! About Joan Kiplinger: Joan was an antique doll costumer and vintage fabric addict who learned to sew on her grandmother’s treadle and had since been peddling fabrications ever since.

The Elusive Obsoletes

Historical costumers, quilters, collectors and others who use vintage and older fabrics consider themselves fortunate if their fabrics have a provenance — a year to determine age or name of fabric type to determine identity. Carrying provenance one step further, it would be an asset to know when these fabrics became obsolete or if the fabric name is just that and not a tradename. While there are many current excellent reference books available which describe and list obsolete fabrics, dating is not available. In going through the eight editions of Grace Denny’s Fabrics, 1923-62, I noticed that she compiled from edition to edition the obsolescence of fabrics, tradenames and textile processes. And, if one took time to compare her section in each edition on current fabrics and tradenames, you could also attain dates when new fabrics hit the market. Perhaps the following information will add to your knowledge for whatever purpose you need. This is not an historical list and is limited in scope to cover American staple or common fabrics which fall into the vintage – oldie range, roughly 1900 to 1962. It is by no means complete. At this time my chief resources for household fabrics existing prior to 1923 were Sears catalogs of 1890, 1902 and 1908. Fabrics then were still available in 1923 except where noted in the list below. Because of limited newsletter space this is a two-part series. Part I deals with fabrics which have died and those which keep coming back to life. Part II covers the discontinuance of tradenames and textile process and a distant future Part III would list when fabrics appeared on the market, all within the same Part I timeframe. By 1923 OBSOLETE Beige wool fabric used for dresses Butcher’s linen replaced by Indianhead Gloria umbrella fabric replaced by silk/cotton blend. A cotton version remained. NAME CHANGES Crepe meteor or kitten’s ear crepe now called any satin-back crepe Domet or Domett now called outing flannel or shaker flannel Grenadine now refers to marquisette or a variety of leno weaves Satin Duchesse a silk satin, now covers all grades of dress satin Kimono flannel now called flannelette Mousseline de Soie silk muslin now called organdie [pref. sp.] or organdy. There seems to be no distinction between cotton and silk organdy; organzine, a double thickness, appeared only in 1936. Mousseline name back in fashion in 1947 and defined as silk muslin while a tradename L’organza appeared in 1953, was changed to organza  and by 1962 defined as silk organdy. By…
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Vintage Fabric – Bias Tape Chart

Bias Tape & Notions Reference Chart for the Vintage Fabric Collector Tape Numbering System Sometime during the latter 1950s-mid-60s, bias tape width sizes began appearing in centimeters. Prior to that during the late 1940s-50s sizes were generally shown in inches. Before that, a number was the sole designation of width.To help you translate numbers on your old tapes, here is the numbering chart from a early Wright’s bias tape booklet: No. 1…………4/16″ No. 2………….5/16″ No. 3………….6/16″ No. 4………….7/16″ No. 5………….8/16″ No. 6………….9/16″ No. 7………….10/16″ No. 8………….11/16″ No. 9………….12/16″ No. 10………….13/16″ No. 11………….14/16″ No. 12………….15/16″ No. 13………….1 inch Brand Company Bias Tape Fabrics Trims History Ace Sears Roebuck Lawn, fine lawn, nainsnook, percale Seam binding, two-tone rickrack, tyrolean trimmings see other Sears brands AFC The American Fabrics Co. Bridgeport, CN Superfine nainsnook Lace, rickrack, novelty trims   American Maid Virginia Snow Laboratories, Collingbourne Mills/Dexter Thread Mills, Elgin IL lawn, and prints in checks, florals   See other Dexter brands Anchorfast Soutache, middy braid Anita Jean Fine percale, Fine Lawn Arcadian UK cotton AWR England cotton B/B [logo is a B superimposed over another B]   Percale     Barton’s Red E Trim Barton Bias Narrow Fabric Co., NY, NY Lawn, cambric, percale, silk, gingham, taffeta, silk faille BNF seam binding see other Narrow Fabrics brands Beauty   Fine fabric, superior quality cotton Beldings of Canada seam binding see Corticelli Belding Corticelli percale  blaket binding with matching thread; seam binding see Corticelli Betsy Ross, unknown if connected to Betsy Ross Trimmings listed below Lou-Sil, Japan   rayon rickrack   Betsy Ross Trimmings Economy Bias Binding Co. Inc. NY   Rickrack, percale see other Economy brands Bird of Paradise Assembled Products Co., Williamsport PA Fine lawn, rickrack, bias stripes [in plain white wrapper with blue stripe border] Spiralette trim, binding, loop point tri-color binding, seam tape See other AP brands Blossom   cotton   see other Assembled Product brands B.N.F. Bias Narrow Fabric Co. 54 Franklin St., NY X-fine lawn, lawn, cambric   name as advertised in 1904 Boiltex [endorsed & sold by Coats & Clark]  Creed & Steward Lt., Aurora IL; Boiltex, Div. Coats & Clark, NY, NY & Aurora, IL; Fine percale, percale, extra fine lawn, picot edge Tapes, trims,   rickrack, piping, quilt and rayon seam bindings see other Coats and Creed & Stewart brands Bonita S.H. Kress made expressly for G.C Murphy Co. chain Lawn Rickrack, seam binding McCrory chain Borden Borden Fabrics fancy bias trim     Brooks   cotton     Brook’s Brook’s Percale  …
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Vintage Fabric Bias Tape 10/2001

Both wide bias and circular skirt facings seem to have made the earliest appearance in the early 1880s when there was a competitive market for skirt facings which were an essential protection in an era when skirts were floor length and most streets were not paved. Warren Featherbone Co. of Three Oaks, Michigan began operations in 1883 producing featherboning made from turkey quills and whips. It entered the notions market in the early 1920s and in 1925 expanded its fine line of bias tapes. SH&M, velveteen bias bindings appeared in the Ladies Home Journal and other magazine ads in the early 1890s and by 1898 was offering Duxbac waterproof tape. These tapes were 1-7/8″ wide and available in 124 dress shades! Castle Novelties, NVB [New Velvet Binding] and OMO were other advertisers in 1894 or earlier. Collector Shirley McElderry notes OMO was still advertising in 1918. OMO of Middlefield CN was still advertising as late as 1926. When you see a turkey think of Warren’s Featherbone….early 1900s promotional card. William Wright first peddled his bias tape from a wagon, then opened a store in 1897 in New York City after conceiving and making a practical method of card winding unit packaging of bias tape for retail sales, according to company records. Another early company was Barton’s established in 1900, a maker of fancy bias tapes which equipped its sales force with appealing sampler folders to hand out to prospective retailers and customers as shown in photo gallery. Regardless who was first, a universal description of bias tape was proclaimed in the Ladies Home Journal, April 1898 issue in its Home Dressmaker column in answer to a query: “Cloth trimming consists principally of bias bands stitched on or near the turned edge of vests, yokes, belts, sleeves, pocket fronts, etc., using it as you would any band trimming and contrasting material as well.” However, these dates by no means preclude earlier availability of bias tape. Because of lack of dating information, I have not been able to determine yet the first manufacturer, American or foreign; sometimes we forget that Americans are not always the first to invent. In 1917 Wm. E. Wright & Sons advertised in magazines that bias tape was “great for children’s dresses, summer dresses, aprons, negligees and finishing lingerie.” Probably there wasn’t and isn’t a sewer who wouldn’t agree to that claim. Apparently consumer acceptance of its prepackaged tape was so good that in 1922, because of a need for expanded production facilities, the company moved…
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Vintage Sweatshops and Fraud Meet the Law

Fast Times at Textile High –Vintage Sweatshops and Fraud Meet the Law: “She sat by the streamside plaiting sinew and intestines from skinned animals her mate had discarded to make body coverings for her family. Nearby, her sister was weaving lighter coverings from wild grasses. Neither could fathom progress beyond that moment, not even that life in the stone age would get better. They knew no other life but as captives and making cloth for their pharaoh from dawn to dusk.“ What they were weaving would have no equal in modern times, linen 540 threads to the inch. There was no pay; their limbs were misshapen from squatting before a loom. Of course this was 2640 B.C Egypt. But man progresses and things will get better, right? Wattling –thought to be the most primitive form of weaving. Reeds used for clothing and utensils; sticks and twigs for housing. – Textiles, 1926 An old print of ancient Egyptians spinning and weaving. – Story of Textiles, 1912 ¨The six year old cried silently but continued spinning her linen as the guild matron high in her pulpit rang a bell to signal a whipping for the young friend beside her who was charged with being neglectful. Of course this was 1677 Germany. But man progresses and things will get better, right?” The street smelled continuously as it was the only place for refuse of any kind. In shoddy factory town housing, families were packed together in unhealthy, filthy living conditions, forced to eat from one plate and sleep in the same bed, work long hours spinning for almost no pay. Of course this was 1788 England. But man progresses and things will get better, right? ¨Across the sea at a mill young girls with flax fastened to their waists spun with both hands as younger children turned the wheels for them 10 hours every day but Sunday. Of course this was 1789 New England. But man progresses and things will get better, right? ¨She screamed but to no avail as she was stampeded to death by the onrush of several hundred seamstresses racing to escape the engulfing flames. Of course this was 1911 New York City’s lower east, the great Triangle Shirtwaist Co. fire, a tragedy where 150 lives were lost due to burning or jumping out of windows, all because exits on the upper floors of the loft building had been locked to prevent “loss of materials.” But man progress and things will get better, right? ¨And of modern times?…
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