Posts Tagged ‘label’
Hi, I have two dresses that I recently purchased and I’m having problems dating the fabrics. Both are, I believe, made of silk brocades. One was remade between 1870 and 1890 (label), but from some other construction techniques (reeds along the front edges and handsewn/covered eylet holes), I believe that the dress was orignially made earlier. The other dress’ bodice is construced on, I believe, a homespun linen, with a very, very, low rounded neckline. The sleeves are just past the elbow, with an elbow point, and tight sleeves. There is no front closure, and the front skirt is open, with a scalloped edge down the edges. This dress was also, I believe re-made at some point, as ribbon ties and net lace (late 1800-early 1900) was added. Both fabrics are striped with flowers. Thank you for your help, Shannon By: Shannon Dalton
Is it safe to wash pants that are 73% rayon, 23% nylon, 5% spandex? The label says dry clean but I have been told that I should be able to wash them myself. Thanks! M By: Maggie
Image via Flickr This question is asked Fabrics.net staff about once a month: “The label says dry clean only, can I wash my dress?” The answer is “Of course you can wash your dress but the results may or may not be pleasing to you.” The dress may shrink, the colors may run, the interfacing might disappear, etc. First an introduction to garment labels. How To Read The Laundry Symbols On Your Clothing Tags! | One … www.onegoodthingbyjillee.com1/8/13 I have now! And now I can explain them to you. :-). (Trust me…you’re going to be glad to know this stuff!) Way back in 1971 the FTC started requiring manufacturers to tag their clothing with at least one safe cleaning method. Learn more about dry cleaning How Dry Cleaning Works Dry cleaning is a process that cleans clothes without water. The cleaning fluid that is used is a liquid, and all garments are immersed and cleaned in a liquid solvent — the fact that there is no water is why the process is called “dry.” In this vid… A product that lets you dry clean garments at home is Dryel. I have tried it and it works great to freshen dry clean garments without adding that solvent odor. If you have heavily soiled garments, a Professional Dry Cleaner is best. Living in Style features Dryel® Watch this clip to see how Dryel® works! How to select a Dry Cleaner and other fabric care information at Fabrics.net. Enjoy!
Which One IS the Toni? I am indebted to author and collector Thelma Bernard whose research serves as the basis for this column. She unearthed the following information from her vast collection of old publications and felt it would have universal interest to vintage garment collectors as well as to collectors of all vintage items. This is Part 1 of a two-part series about fraud, sweatshops and the law in the vintage textile industry. For the past 20 years, vintage textiles has been a popular and growing field for collectors. Clothes and accessories in particular have been bringing premium prices, both at auctions, online sites and local stores. Collectors speak of pride about their garments, hats and shoes that they have acquired by inheritance or purchase, particularly those with a provenance or bearing a Paris label. Nothing quite so elegant as a Worth or a Georgette or a Paquin. But are these labels genuine? Are these garments first rate house designs or secondary workmanship, a conspiracy to defraud American women? Step back into time and then rethink your collection. The explosion occurred on March 1913 when the Ladies Home Journal published a story by Samuel Hopkins Adams, an American journalist and author who played an important part in exposing corruption in business and politics including child labor and the patent-medicine business: Dishonest Paris Labels: How American Women are Being Fooled by a Country- wide Swindle “The American woman’s slavish and insistent demand for things Parisian has brought about a swindle that today permeates almost the entire dressmaking and millinery business in the United States.” If, for example, a woman has a so-called imported gown with a Worth label sewn in it the odds are overwhelming that it is fraudulent; or a Paquin or a Drecoll or a Doucet label, or any other French label. If she has in her hat a Georgette, a Talbot, a Reboux, a Marie Louise or any other Paris label, it’s a hundred chances to one that the hat was made in America and the label is a forgery.“ “Fraudulent Paris labels are today being used broadcast by the millinery and dressmaking trades of America. The houses which are not guilty of it are the rare and notable exceptions. Some idea of the extent of the practice may be gained from the fact that the manufacture of the false French labels for American-made garments has become a specific branch of the trade-mark weaving industry. The forgeries are woven by machinery and are sold in lots…
Image via Flickr Incredibly soft, lightweight and sensual, precious and rare Cashmere is the ultimate wool. Because cashmere is so sought-after there are many “pretenders”. To make sure the cashmere you buy is genuine, check the sewn in label. This label by law has to list the exact fiber content of the garment. Some companies advertise that their garment is cashmere but when the label is read the actual content may not be 100% cashmere. Another good test is to gently rub the cashmere on your chin as the chin is the most sensitive part of the face. If the wool feels scratchy or prickly, the cashmere isn’t 100% cashmere or is of an inferior grade and still contains some of the animal guard hairs. Cashmere is made from the undercoat of Cashmere goats that live in some areas of China, Mongolia, Iran, New Zealand, Australia and Afghanistan. The undercoat is combed from the animal in the spring during molting season when the animals naturally shed their hair. In Iran, Afghanistan, New Zealand and Australia the goats are sheared with each goat producing about 3.5 ounces of the useable fiber. It takes about 3 goat undercoats to produce a sweater which explains why the cost of cashmere garments is high. Cashmere has excellent insulating properties and is used in men’s and women’s coats, jackets, skirts, sweaters, slacks, scarves, hats and robes. Blankets for children and babies are pure luxury keeping the child warm without adding weight or bulk. Cashmere jackets, coats, suits are dry clean only. Cashmere knits can be hand washed using a mild shampoo. Bleaches of any kind cannot be used as both oxygen and chlorine bleaches will damage the fibers. Cashmere care One of the tests to determine wool is with the use of chlorine bleach: Cut two small swatches of the fabric to be tested. Submerge one swatch in chlorine bleach for 8 hours. Keep the other swatch for comparison. After 8 hours the wool in the chlorine bleach will have dissolved or totally degraded. If the test swatch has other fibers left, the wool is a blend of wool and other fibers.
Hello, I bought a lovely vintage jacket (65% wool, 30% polyester 5% other), which is perfect at the front, but has persistent ‘crinkling’ of the fabric of the back and sleeves. A friend insists that the jacket has been washed, even though the label advises against this and that I should use spray-starch before ironing. I’m not sure about this diagnosis, as would have expected the whole garment to have been affected by washing, and I’m reluctant to start spraying it with anything until I know what I’m doing. I tried straightforward ironing – which made no difference! – and wonder if it would be ok to try steam-ironing, or whether that would just make things worse. If this problem sounds familiar to you, would be grateful for your advice! Thanks. By: Sarah F
Hi there! I recently bought a really nice handbag on ebay – pre-owned, but bought from the first owner – which I would like to wash once. I wouldn’t say it’s dirty, really, in fact it looks perfectly clean with no marks, but it does have a slightly ‘closet-y’ smell, like things get if they’ve been worn and then stored immediately without airing out, and it puts me off a wee bit – not enough to get rid f the bag, but I would feel better if there was a way I could wash it as it hasn’t gone away even after I’ve kept it out of my own closet for the few weeks I’ve had it. The problem is that it is made out of some sort of velvety material, so it’s not an obvious thing to wash. So I just wanted to get some ideas and advice on whether I can do that, and what to pay attention to, and what kind of results I should expect, that sort of thing. It is a medium sized bag (A4 papers will squeeze in but not a book the same size), has a kisslock frame opening, and piping around the edges to give shape and structure. There is also some type of semi-rigid interfacing on the bottom to give the bottom some shape, but it is sewn in so I have no way to find out what it is. There is no label listing exact fabric composition, but the outside is some sort of velvety material accented with a few beads and sequins, while the inside is a sort of cotton-like lining that might have some synthetic in it as it has a lovely sheen to it. It is dark purple in color (photo attached for reference). Anyway, anything you can let me know around washing this type of thing, I would definitely appreciate it! thanks By: Niki