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Posts Tagged ‘seam’

Stitch Length, Seam Finishes And More

Image via Flickr The questions we are receiving from our customers require more than verbal descriptions.  Instead of making videos or step by step photos to demonstrate the techniques, I have located many excellent tutorials on the internet.  To read the full article please click on the underlined title. On unlined garments, seam finishes prevent raveling and can add special touches. Sergers are nice but not necessary and in some cases a serged seam will show through to the right side. Seven Lovely Things: Hong Kong Seam Finish Tutorial http://sevenlovelythings.blogspot.comMon, 22 Apr 2013 10:30:00 GMT I actually used these seam finishes on the dress I am working with now (I am almost done with it, just need the hem and some embellishments) For me, sewing has a set of “rules” and I like to follow them. My top 3 Rules For … Excellent instructional video on Hong Kong and faux flat felled seams plus fancy additions from a Designer:  How To Sew Posh Seam Finishes Lesson with Ron Collins Ron Collins demonstrates 3 of his posh seam finishes – Hong Kong, flat felled and inside seams — all of which you can do on your sewing machine. http://www…. Many of the newer machines have fancy embroidery stitches and seam finishes.  This article may take the confusion away for you:  Sewn Seam Finishes » Woodrow Handcrafts http://www.woodrowhandcrafts.comSat, 04 May 2013 01:20:38 GMT Have you ever wondered what all of those stitches on your sewing machine are used for? Some are used for construction and others are used for finishing and…   Do you ever wonder what stitch length you should use for each fabric or garment? I learned many, many years ago that the smaller stitch length worked better for me so for the past 50 years the stitch length I have used is approximately 8 – 10 stitches per inch which is number 2 on the stitch dial.  The vintage sewing machines had the stitch setting according to the number of stitches per inch  This writer has done a helpful comparison between the number stitch dial and stitches per inch:  Stitch Length on Vintage and Modern Sewing Machines http://susanscloches.blogspot.comSun, 10 Mar 2013 14:41:00 GMT Occasionally I need to know a vintage sewing machine’s stitch length compared to a modern machine’s. I’ve not found much information on it, so I sat down with a couple of sewing machines and tried to figure it out for myself … Image via Flickr   Ease stitch length is not the same as a gathering…
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Follow The Bouncing Ball?

Image via Flickr I often decide on an idea for my blog only to find that the “bouncing ball thread” leads to unexpected but often delightful places.  For example I just read an article in the Threads Magazine on seam treatments.  Google decided that “seam treatments” meant a variety of things, some I didn’t know I needed to learn! An unexpected lesson on how to pad seam allowances so they don’t show through when pressed numerous times:  Make Padded Seams to Prevent Seam Allowance Impressions … http://www.threadsmagazine.comTue, 26 Mar 2013 08:00:00 GMT Padded seams are traditionally used with a bulkier fabric to exaggerate the appearance of a seam, to provide an additional foundation for seam embellishments, or to prop up delicate fabrics. I use silk organza strips as a … Image via Flickr   I hadn’t even considered the art of Crazy Quilts and seam embellishment.  If you need ideas for the seams on your crzay quilt, just search Google to find ideas like SuzTats: Suztats: Stitching Last Week http://suztats.blogspot.comThu, 18 Apr 2013 22:58:00 GMT added buttonhole chain stitch as well as other seam embellishments added another cutwork circle and trimmed it with cast-on stitch chains which carried along the seam. and piece #2 is finished! I’ve already begun piece #3!   I had no idea that Crazy Quilts included beading!  Beautiful look and I wonder how they are cleaned or perhaps they are just for wall hangings?  If anyone knows, please let me know.  Now for a look at Pintangle:  Work in Progress Wednesday: Lace crazy quilt block 32 – Pin Tangle http://pintangle.comTue, 16 Apr 2013 19:26:39 GMT Beautiful block! The beading looks especially lovely with the seam treatments you chose. Here’s my WIP for this week: http://magicmoonmusings.blogspot.ca/2013/04/work-in-progress-wednesday-and-some-ufos.html · Reply … Hope you all enjoyed this! Judith Judith@fabrics.net

Enjoy Sewing Wool Melton!

Sewing with wool Melton is fun!  When choosing a design or pattern for a Melton garment, choose one that has simple lines with no darts.  If you want a fitted garment choose a design that is fitted through the seams like a princess jacket or coat. More from Kirsten Longly The fewer the smaller details the easier it is to sew with this beautiful fabric.  This fabric is perfect for making an unlined coat or jacket as shown in this purple melton coat. Pre-treatment isn’t needed with the wool melton sold in the Fabrics.net Store.  Wool melton has a nap so be sure and put all pattern pieces going one way.  When the nap runs down, the garment the garment usually wears better and feels softer.  When the nap runs up, the color is deeper  but the garment may show wear in areas like the elbow, knees, rump.   A sewing machine needle in size 12 – 14 sharp is a good size for this wool.   Finishing the cut edges isn’t necessary as this wool doesn’t ravel easily.  Lengthening your stitch is helpful; instead of 10 stitches per inch try 8 stitches per inch.  Interfacing isn’t necessary but if you wish to use interfacing a medium weight sewn in interfacing is desirable. A good steam iron is essential for all tailoring.   If your iron doesn’t produce enough steam, use a damp pressing cloth on the wrong side of the garment.  Press the seams open except at the armscye or armhole where the seam allowance is graded then pressed toward the sleeve  The beauty of wool Melton tailoring is that ease can be molded or shrunk in by steam as seen in the photo.   After pressing, allow the Melton to dry before continuing construction on your garment. We recommend dry cleaning the finished garments.  For more information on cleaning and selecting a good dry cleaners see http://info.fabrics.net/fabric-facts/fabric-care/ Although I have never done this, some people add Lanolin treatments to their wool melton which adds water proofing properties. This is especially useful for wool garments worn for outdoor sports.  For more information on Lanolizing wool http://pig-monkey.com/2011/02/19/lanolizing-wool/

Where can i find elastic fabric

Years ago I made sun dresses for my kids out of a fabric that had elastic thread through one side of it.  All you had to do was sew one seam.  I’m trying desperately to find that fabric again but I have no idea what the name was or where to look for it in todays markets. I sure hope someone there is old enough to remember the fabric and what it is called.   Thank You for your help.   Paula    By: Paula Leonard

Vintage Fabric – Bias Tape Chart

Bias Tape & Notions Reference Chart for the Vintage Fabric Collector Tape Numbering System Sometime during the latter 1950s-mid-60s, bias tape width sizes began appearing in centimeters. Prior to that during the late 1940s-50s sizes were generally shown in inches. Before that, a number was the sole designation of width.To help you translate numbers on your old tapes, here is the numbering chart from a early Wright’s bias tape booklet: No. 1…………4/16″ No. 2………….5/16″ No. 3………….6/16″ No. 4………….7/16″ No. 5………….8/16″ No. 6………….9/16″ No. 7………….10/16″ No. 8………….11/16″ No. 9………….12/16″ No. 10………….13/16″ No. 11………….14/16″ No. 12………….15/16″ No. 13………….1 inch Brand Company Bias Tape Fabrics Trims History Ace Sears Roebuck Lawn, fine lawn, nainsnook, percale Seam binding, two-tone rickrack, tyrolean trimmings see other Sears brands AFC The American Fabrics Co. Bridgeport, CN Superfine nainsnook Lace, rickrack, novelty trims   American Maid Virginia Snow Laboratories, Collingbourne Mills/Dexter Thread Mills, Elgin IL lawn, and prints in checks, florals   See other Dexter brands Anchorfast Soutache, middy braid Anita Jean Fine percale, Fine Lawn Arcadian UK cotton AWR England cotton B/B [logo is a B superimposed over another B]   Percale     Barton’s Red E Trim Barton Bias Narrow Fabric Co., NY, NY Lawn, cambric, percale, silk, gingham, taffeta, silk faille BNF seam binding see other Narrow Fabrics brands Beauty   Fine fabric, superior quality cotton Beldings of Canada seam binding see Corticelli Belding Corticelli percale  blaket binding with matching thread; seam binding see Corticelli Betsy Ross, unknown if connected to Betsy Ross Trimmings listed below Lou-Sil, Japan   rayon rickrack   Betsy Ross Trimmings Economy Bias Binding Co. Inc. NY   Rickrack, percale see other Economy brands Bird of Paradise Assembled Products Co., Williamsport PA Fine lawn, rickrack, bias stripes [in plain white wrapper with blue stripe border] Spiralette trim, binding, loop point tri-color binding, seam tape See other AP brands Blossom   cotton   see other Assembled Product brands B.N.F. Bias Narrow Fabric Co. 54 Franklin St., NY X-fine lawn, lawn, cambric   name as advertised in 1904 Boiltex [endorsed & sold by Coats & Clark]  Creed & Steward Lt., Aurora IL; Boiltex, Div. Coats & Clark, NY, NY & Aurora, IL; Fine percale, percale, extra fine lawn, picot edge Tapes, trims,   rickrack, piping, quilt and rayon seam bindings see other Coats and Creed & Stewart brands Bonita S.H. Kress made expressly for G.C Murphy Co. chain Lawn Rickrack, seam binding McCrory chain Borden Borden Fabrics fancy bias trim     Brooks   cotton     Brook’s Brook’s Percale  …
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Those Old Dolls Are Much Fussier Than Humans

Several columns ago Linda Learn presented a marvelous and humorous, but true, picture of what the costumer endures to achieve authenticity and to satisfy fidgety, fussy customers. That was a natural lead in to dressing old dolls which ironically may not kick and cuss but it is thrice harder for doll dressmakers to please their owners. In many respects dressing dolls is no different than clothing humans so what pertains to dolls in this column can also be beneficial to costumers. Many doll collectors attempting to dress their own dolls or for others are not quite sure about style and fabric. Whatever information is learned along the way, it is still a prerequisite to have good doll references for all types of garments and accessories and to understand the basic differences of doll types. Economy at its best — head molds such as this German A.M. doll were used over a long period of time. Used on leather bodies c1890s mold number was 370; used on composition bodies cWWI years, mold number was 390 as is this doll. Before you even begin to costume you should know if doll is an original or repro, its age and size, maker if there are mold marks, type or classification, condition [repaired, needing repairs], and what is original to or replaced on doll such as body parts, eyes, wig, shoes, socks and clothes. Often manufacturers would use the same head mold over a 20- 30-year period; sometimes the body style or manufacturer’s body stamp will help to give a more precise date. However, production longevity for such doll heads gives costumers a leeway of several decades to choose their styles. There are three classifications of doll garments: original – clothes [also wigs, eyes, shoes, socks, body parts] on doll as made by the manufacturer and sold that way; commercial – another term for original but these are additional clothes made by manufacturer or an authorized company for a particular doll, usually tagged [has label]; and contemporary – clothes made or bought [usually not tagged] for doll in the decade of its manufacture. Homemade or “replaced clothing” are buzzwords which can mean anything, usually just that and in most cases not suitable to doll. Do not be fooled by clothes doll may be wearing as they could be throw-ons of no particular value or significance. Of vital interest to collectors are tagged clothing which can be valued many times higher than the doll as any Ginny or Barbie collector will verify Reproduction…
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Doll Couture Vintage Style

This article was written by Yvonne Williams This month’s guest columnist is doll couturist Yvonne Williams who does marvelous tricks with turning vintage fabrics into vintage fashions for today’s crème de la crème fashion dolls. If you have been yearning to be a Dior or Schiaparelli in miniature and use your old fabric to create fabulous frocks for your favorite dolls, follow along as Yvonne provides advice, tips and resources.  If you’ve ever longed to wear or design haute couture but find the times unsuited to such elegance, you might find that vintage Doll Couture is for you. With the modest investment of a fashion doll such as Gene, Alex, or Kitty, you will find a lovely lady, willing and waiting to model for hours on end – no fussing, fidgeting, or arguing. If you like the design, so does she, and she looks great. Costly fabrics are not a problem in Doll Couture, either, because most designs can be made from a yard or less. Splurge! What Is Doll Couture? Doll Couture differs both from haute couture and from simple doll dressmaking. Doll Couture incorporates the principles of haute couture – quality craftsmanship, luxurious fabric and findings, and uniquely creative design – and scales it down for a fashion doll a quarter of the size of her human counterpart. Doll Couture takes doll dressmaking to a high level of detail and adds elaborate and time-consuming touches found in true haute couture, such as handwork, thread tracing, finished seams, and the like. While it is both doll dressmaking and haute couture, it is neither, remaining an art form unto itself. Not all haute couture practices are appropriate or even possible at the quarter scale of doll costuming; nor will many standard doll dressmaking practices live up to the rigorous demands of Doll Couture. Having focused the last few years on haute couture, fashion history, and Doll Couture in particular, two main elements come to my mind in discussing this art form: proportion and movement. These are the keys to my designs. Tools of the trade — sleeve board with vintage fabric (1930 silk broadcloth) draped over it; mini Clover iron; 1/4″ scotch tape for tissue-paper slopers; architect’s rule with 10-60 marks/inch gauges; thread and notions box with silk thread for hand sewing; 1/4″ tape measure; size 0 snaps and hooks; embroidery scissors; 1/4″ quilter’s guide; 1/4″ – 1/2″ quilter’s guide; dual tracing wheel, set at 1/4″ seam allowance; bee’s wax for lubricating and strengthening hand sewing thread; needles…
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