Enjoy Sewing Wool Melton!

Sewing with wool Melton is fun!  When choosing a design or pattern for a Melton garment, choose one that has simple lines with no darts.  If you want a fitted garment choose a design that is fitted through the seams like a princess jacket or coat.

White Melton Tailored JackedWool Melton Jacket DetailWhite Melton Tailored Jacked

More from Kirsten Longly

The fewer the smaller details the easier it is to sew with this beautiful fabric.  This fabric is perfect for making an unlined coat or jacket as shown in this purple melton coat.

Purple Melton Coat

Pre-treatment isn’t needed with the wool melton sold in the Fabrics.net Store.  Wool melton has a nap so be sure and put all pattern pieces going one way.  When the nap runs down, the garment the garment usually wears better and feels softer.  When the nap runs up, the color is deeper  but the garment may show wear in areas like the elbow, knees, rump.   A sewing machine needle in size 12 – 14 sharp is a good size for this wool.   Finishing the cut edges isn’t necessary as this wool doesn’t ravel easily.  Lengthening your stitch is helpful; instead of 10 stitches per inch try 8 stitches per inch.  Interfacing isn’t necessary but if you wish to use interfacing a medium weight sewn in interfacing is desirable.

A good steam iron is essential for all tailoring.   If your iron doesn’t produce enough steam, use a damp pressing cloth on the wrong side of the garment.  Press the seams open except at the armscye or armhole where the seam allowance is graded then pressed toward the sleeve  The beauty of wool Melton tailoring is that ease can be molded or shrunk in by steam as seen in the photo.

Olive Green Melton JacketDetail of wool melton seam


After pressing, allow the Melton to dry before continuing construction on your garment.

Charcoal Wool Melton JacketMelton Jacket and Ultrasuede Skirt

We recommend dry cleaning the finished garments.  For more information on cleaning and selecting a good dry cleaners see http://info.fabrics.net/fabric-facts/fabric-care/

Although I have never done this, some people add Lanolin treatments to their wool melton which adds water proofing properties. This is especially useful for wool garments worn for outdoor sports.  For more information on Lanolizing wool


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