Vintage Fabric – Bias Tape Chart

Bias Tape & Notions Reference Chart for the Vintage Fabric Collector Tape Numbering System Sometime during the latter 1950s-mid-60s, bias tape width sizes began appearing in centimeters.

Prior to that during the late 1940s-50s sizes were generally shown in inches. Before that, a number was the sole designation of width.To help you translate numbers on your old tapes, here is the numbering chart from a early Wright’s bias tape booklet: No.

1…………4/16″ No.

2………….5/16″ No.

3………….6/16″ No.

4………….7/16″ No.

5………….8/16″ No.

6………….9/16″ No.

7………….10/16″ No.

8………….11/16″ No.

9………….12/16″ No.

10………….13/16″ No.

11………….14/16″ No.

12………….15/16″ No.

13………….1 inch

Brand Company Bias Tape Fabrics Trims History Ace Sears Roebuck Lawn, fine lawn, nainsnook, percale Seam binding, two-tone rickrack, tyrolean trimmings see other Sears brands AFC The American Fabrics Co.

Bridgeport, CN Superfine nainsnook Lace, rickrack, novelty trims   American Maid Virginia Snow Laboratories, Collingbourne Mills/Dexter Thread Mills, Elgin IL lawn, and prints in checks, florals   See other Dexter brands Anchorfast Soutache, middy braid Anita Jean Fine percale, Fine Lawn Arcadian UK cotton AWR England cotton B/B [logo is a B superimposed over another B]   Percale     Barton’s Red E Trim Barton Bias Narrow Fabric Co., NY, NY Lawn, cambric, percale, silk, gingham, taffeta, silk faille BNF seam binding see other Narrow Fabrics brands Beauty   Fine fabric, superior quality cotton Beldings of Canada seam binding see Corticelli Belding Corticelli percale  blaket binding with matching thread; seam binding see Corticelli Betsy Ross, unknown if connected to Betsy Ross Trimmings listed below Lou-Sil, Japan   rayon rickrack   Betsy Ross Trimmings Economy Bias Binding Co. Inc. NY   Rickrack, percale see other Economy brands Bird of Paradise Assembled Products Co., Williamsport PA Fine lawn, rickrack, bias stripes [in plain white wrapper with blue stripe border] Spiralette trim, binding, loop point tri-color binding, seam tape See other AP brands Blossom   cotton   see other Assembled Product brands B.N.F.

Bias Narrow Fabric Co. 54 Franklin St., NY X-fine lawn, lawn, cambric   name as advertised in 1904 Boiltex [endorsed & sold by Coats & Clark]  Creed & Steward Lt., Aurora IL; Boiltex, Div. Coats & Clark, NY, NY & Aurora, IL; Fine percale, percale, extra fine lawn, picot edge Tapes, trims,   rickrack, piping, quilt and rayon seam bindings see other Coats and Creed & Stewart brands Bonita S.H.

Kress made expressly for G.C Murphy Co. chain Lawn Rickrack, seam binding McCrory chain Borden Borden Fabrics fancy bias trim     Brooks   cotton     Brook’s Brook’s Percale     Bucilla NYC, NY   mercerized rickrack   Bur-Mil Burlington Mills cotton seam binding, twill tape   Butterfly   fancy bias trim     Cadillac   Lawn Rickrack   California Brand   superfine cambric in turkey red     Cameo Hoffman Lion Mills Fall River MA   Rickrack, shoulder strapping   Cameo Walker Webbing Co. Inc. Fall River MA fine lawn   Unsure if this Cameo connected to Cameo rickrack brand Castle Novelties Castle Braid Co. 15-12 Mercer St., NYC   fancy rickrack braid, mohair skirt binding est.

Early 1895 or earlier Coats   Great Britain Nainsnook   see other Coats brands Colonial     Rickrack   Coquette   Percale, silk Quilt binding, Rickrack, extra fine sateen blanket binding Corticelli Belding Corticelli, Box 9, Montreal, Canada rickrack, seam binding see Belding, Corticelli Corticelli Corticelli Silk Co.

Fine lawn rickrack, seam binding Belding Corticelli of Canada, see Belding, Corticelli Cream of the Mill   superfine percale, checks, stripes double finish Dandy Tub Tape superior quality lawnDeco-rick Press-on Inc. 16 W. 61 St., NYC   100% virgin wool rickrack Dexter   nainsook Dolly Dimple Westfield Mfg. Co. x-fine lawn Doll-dup LouSil superfine lawn Doris Marie Percale, Fine Percale, Fine Lawn E.C. Walker E.C.

Walker, Canada extra-fine lawn Economy Bias Binding Co., NY, NY Percale, superfine percale, Nainsook rayon taffeta seam binding See other Economy brands EDMO lawn Elite S.H. Kress & Co.

Stores fine lawn   McCrory chain Emdin   Percale, Nylon     Excella   fine lawn     FA Quality Friedberger-Aaron Mfg. Co. Philadelphia, PA Cambric, lawn, percale, combination tape & matching thread Bindings, trims, twill tape, braids Fairloom [Boiltex] Sears, Roebuck Co   Rickrack See other Boiltex & Coats brands Fantasy faggoted bias tape Fashion Quality Percale Fifth Av.

Assembled Products Co. Williamsport PA Lawn, fine percale   See other AP brands Fifty Five Made for McLella stores lawn   see other McCrory brands Fleischers Fleischer’s Worsted Works Philadelphia PA   rickrack   Fleur deLys Poirier & Lindeman Co.

NY, NY Percale Meteor seam binding   Fruit of the Loom Economy Bias Binding NY, 1290 Avenue of the Americas, NY Extra-fine percale, nainsnook, percale, x-fine percale Trims, bindings, twill, rickrack, piping, facings, acetate taffeta & nylon bias seam binding See other Economy brands Geisha UK cotton Good Luck cotton Glossamer Perfectos Series, Specialists, Scotland glossamer luster fabric {ed note: probably a fine nainsnook or lawn similar to Warren’s} Gold Medal Samstag’s, NY Finest Cambric     Gotham fine color litho as on other A.P. wrappers A.P.

Co Lawn   Possible Assembled Products brand Green Oak Kresge’s Fine lawn, percale, fine percale; some made of Pacific fabric; combo sets Rickrack See other Kresge brands Green Star made expressly for H.L. Green Company, Inc.

Fine Lawn   McCrory chain Hearthside Sears Percale Rickrack   Highmount BMD   lawn     Honor Brand  J.C. Penney lawn Rickrack see other Penney brands Hope W [in diamond-shaped symbol] fine lawn     Household Quality   lawn   rose logo similar to Araby; see other Assembled Product brands HYCLASS Canada   silk bias seam tape   Jewel The Jewel Factory Box 999, Pawtucket RI Rickrack   J.C.

Penny J.C. Penny Fine percale, percale Rickrack, bindings, trims, facings see other Penney brands J&P Coats Coats & Clark, NY, NYalso manufactured by Boiltex Co., Aurora IL, Divison of Coats & Clark USA Finest percale, Fine Lawn, Fine percale, Percale, Nainsnook, also packaged with matching thread John Martin’s Spool Pets projects series, 1930 and 1935: : Kitty cat, Hal horse, Puppy dog, Bob bunny, Clara cow, Pete pig.

Spool Zoo series, 1931, with fox, bear, zebra, lion elephant and hippo; Twill tape, seam binding; also packaged with matching thread See other Boiltex brands; Boiltex [a division], Coats, J&P Coats, John Martin’s Spool Pets, Green Oak Just Rite Price Shimmin & Kalal Chicago, IL Mercerized Rickrack, Quilt binding   KENACO   lawn     Krelawn made for Kresge’s fine lawn, sometimes with matching thread   see other Kresge brands Kresge’s Kresge Co.

Rickrack See other Kresge brands; Green Oak, Krelawn, Kresge’s, Sensation[?] see JP Coats. Lady Dexter Dexter Yarn/ Virginia Snow Lawn, nainsook, percale, Byssine thread combo See other Dexter brands Lady Fair T.

Eaton, Canada Fine lawn     Lady Fayre   percale Rickrack   Lady Gay (cellophane wrapper)   extra fine percale     Lady Royal Jap Silk Co., Collingbourne/Dexter Mills, Elgin IL superfine lawn   see Dexter Larkin made for Larkin Soap Co.  Buffalo NY lawn   rose logo similar to Araby; see other Assembled Product brands LaSalle Economy Bias Binding NY, NY Percale, Lawn Rickrack See other Economy brands Lella Made for McLellan Stores Fine lawn Rickrack McCrory chain Lily White   Nainsook, thread combo     Loom Jewels Made by IWDGA Percale     Lycoming [wax paper wrapper]     Rickrack   Madam Lloyd     Rickrack   Majesty   Percale, Lawn Bindings, facings, trims, rickrack, hair accessories, belting, fastenings, shoe and corset lacings Possibly made for Federated Stores of America Marilyn   nainsook     Marlene Sold Exclusively by Newberry’s [McCrory chain stores] fine lawn   McCrory chain Mayflower Brand   silk     Modern Modern Binding Co., Chicago   Rickrack   Mutual Brand         Fancy bias trimming     My Queen UK silk     New Fashion England cotton     Nufashond Assembled Products of Williamsport, PA Percale, Lawn Rickrack, bindings, tape lace, eyelet, elastic, edgetrim see other Narrow Fabrics Co. brands N.V.B. New Velvet Binding, Kurscheedt Mfg. Co., 356 W. Broadway NYC   velvet bindings est. 1895 or earlier NYNCO N.Y. Notions of Chicago Pacific fabrics, blue & white fine-check, percale, lawn Shell Braid, rickrack, middy braid, soutache, rayon taffeta seam binding est. 1900 OMO Bias Tape OMO Bias Tape, Middletown CN percale dress shields est. 1895; bias tape 1918 Paramount England cotton Rickrack   Pastoral Cloth Sears bias tape of Pastoral fabric   see other Sears brands Penimaid J.C.

Penny Percale, Lawn, Fine Percale, Fine Lawn Rickrack, bindings, tape see other Penney brands Penn Novelty Trim Penn Novelty Trim   Rickrack   Pepperell   Nainsnook bias tape/thread combo   Perfect   Percale     Perfecto UK silk     Peter Pan Peter Pan Fabrics, Henry Glass & Co Percale     Phoebe Snow Sears cotton   see other Sears brands Plantation   Fine lawn   See other Economy Bias brands Primrose Primrose Trimming Co.

& Assembled Products of Connecticut; 333 W.39th NY,NY Fine lawn Rickrack, bindings See other Assembled Products brands Princess Pat Canada cotton     Princess   cotton     Print Trim Wm. Wright & Sons Mfg., West Warren MA & Orange, NJ Fine cotton   See other Wright brands Priscilla Kay Manufacturing Company Ltd.

Canada Fine lawn     Prudence   Lawn, percale some fabrics made with Pacific Mills fabric, fine Pacific percale Rickrack, braids, soutaches   Puritan     Rickrack   Radiant   Lawn, percale Rickrack   Rick Rack     rayon rickrack   Royal   double fold with trim     Royal Swan Burlington Mills   Seam binding   Rose of Araby Assembled Products of Williamsport PA Fast colors, fine count, fine lawn Rickrack, piping, quilt & blanket binding; sewing specialties; elastic see other Assembled Product brands S Canada Fine Lawn     Sanford (roll form in cellophane pouch)   extra fine quality feather stitch braid   Scissors Gr Britain cotton     Sensation sKs insignia could denote Kresge’s Fine lawn, lawn, fine percale rayon taffeta, seam binding Possible Kresge brand Showboat Ebb Co, NY, NY [Economy Bias Binding Co].

Fine Percale, Fine Lawn     S.H.& M S.H.& M, 131 Springer St. NYC   Bias skirt binding    1894 or earlier Silhouette The Narrow Fabric Co. West Reading, PA   Rickrack, rayon rickrack see other Narrow Fabrics Co brands So-E-Z   Fine lawn     Star American Thread Stamford CT Fine cotton, nylon, Fine Percale blanket and seam binding   Stay Trim Continental Elastic Corp, New Bedford, MA fine percale combo bias tape/thread pack   Sterling   percale, pacific percale Rickrack   Strand   Cotton     Sullivan Sullivan Smythfield Co.

Percale Rickrack   Sunny South Percale   Percale     Tailor Bird     Rickrack, middy braid   Talon Talon Div. of Textron NY, NY Percale Trims, zippers   Tidy Trim Narrow Fabrics Percale, lawn, fine percale Rickrack, seam  & quilt binding, soutache, middy braid, hem facings see other Narrow Fabrics Co. brands Tip Top   fine lawn     Toray Toray, Japan Tetoron [65% cotton, 35% poly]     Triangle C   Silk taffeta     Trimtex Assembled Products Inc., Milford CN & Williamsport PA; Donahue Sales, St.

Hyacinth, Quebec Canada Lawn, Percale, Rayon Rickrack, bindings facings, trims, piping See other Assembled Products brand Trufold, Trueworth McCoy Jones & Co. Inc, Merchandise Mart, Chicago IL Super quality lawn, fast colors, fine count, silk Rickrack, bindings, notions   Invader Tubtex   Percale, silk, fine lawn   Possibly made for Marshall Field & Co.; Invader was patented by company in 1930 Victor   lawn   See other Assembled Product brands for similar rose logos for cottons Victory     rayon seam binding   Walker Canada extra-fine lawn, fine lawn     Ward’s Montgomery Ward Nainsnook-finish percale, lawn, fine lawn   see other Ward brands Warren’s Standard, J&J Bluebird & Cloth of Gold Warren Featherbone Co., Three Oaks MI Fine nainsnook, nainsnook, lawn, fine percale, habutai; matching thread, silk, combination tape & matching thread Trims, facings, rickrack, boning, seam binding 1883; bias tape from early 1920s to 1960s Wearwell England nylon     Winsome Lady Winsome Lady, Issacs-Shorsher Inc NYC, Weston NY Percale     Wrights — W&N, Monarch Brand, Meteor Brand, Wright’s E-Z Trim   Wm Wright & Sons Mfg., West Warren MA & Orange NJ Extra fine india lawn, fine lawn, lawn, fine nainsnook, nainsnook, gingham, fine percale, percale, Flexicloth, super batiste, batiste, silk, lingerie silk, superior wash silk, heavy-wash silk, soft-finish pure silk, taffeta, cambric, cambritex, lusteray [rayon/cotton], natural linen, combination tape & mataching thread; NRA printed on depression-year wrappers Rickrack, trims, bindings, facings, seam & blanket see other Wright’s brands Yale   cotton     Brandnames by Major BiasTape and Rickrack Manufacturers [ Includes Seam Bindings Made by These Manufacturers] Manufacturer & History Brandnames American Fabrics.

Co. AFC American Thread Star Assembled Products Bird of Paradise, Blossom, Fifth Av, Gotham [A.P. label], House Quality ?, Larkin?, Nufashond [also see Narrow Fabrics], Rose of Araby, Victor Belding/Corticelli Beldings of Canada, Corticelli, Corticelli of Canada Burlington Mills Bur-Mil, Royal Swan Creed & Steward Lt. Boiltex before becoming a division of Coats & Clark Dexter Yarn. Co./Western Thread/Collingbourne Mills/ Virginia Snow/Leewards 1798 – Dexter Yarn Co..established in Pawtucket RI; mill built in 1813; by 1820 producing knitting cotton, later cotton threads and yarns. 1907 – Western Thread Co. founded in Elgin IL, a yarn and thread dyer for general mills. 1912 – A. B. Collingbourne joined company. Artzilk artificial embroider and crochet thread introduced. 1915 – Western Thread published Encyclopedia of Art Needlwork by Virginia Snow. 1918 – Name changed to Collingbourne Mills. Began manufacturing cotton thread.

Logo was ABC in a diamond for Americ’as Best Cottons and A.B. Collingbourne.

1924 – Collingbourne Mills purchased Berkshire & Becket [1885 ]of Becket MA, silk product manufacturers. This line plus stamped embroidery patterns offered.

1926 – Modern needlework plant built and operated as Virginia Snow Studios. Collingbourne reputed to be largest independent manufacturer of spool, embroidery and chrochet threads in USA.

1927 – Collingbourne purchase Dexter Yarn Co.

1937 – Collingbourne sold to rudy Petzeit and name changed to Dexter Thread Mills.

1938 – Dexter Mills went bankrupt and into receiversip.

1946 – Dexter acquired by Fink and Fried, resellersr of nylon parachute thread; Lustra Nylon thread and Dexter’s remaining sewing lines now offered.

1949 – With introduction of catalog to sell thread and needlwork supplies, a more consumer oriented name was needed. Looking at a world map, one of the owner’s eyes happen to fall on Leeward Islands, thus business was called Leewards.

1969 – General Mills purchased Leeward as part of its leisure-time division.

1985 – Unprofitable catalog division closed in 1984.

Company sold to Munford Inc of Atlanta.

1988 – Company operates as LeeWards Craft Bazaar with 60 stores in 25 cities.

American Maid, Lady Dexter, Lady Royal Econony Bias Binding Co.aka EBB Co. Betsy Ross Trimmings, Economy, Fruit of Loom, LaSalle, Plantation, Show Boat Federated Stores of America Majesty -possible label for stores in its chain such as S.B. McCain & Sons in Northeast Pennsylvania Friedburger-Aaron Mfg. Co. FAQuality Kresge’s Green Oak, Krelawn, Kresge’s, Sensation[?] see JP Coats below. J.P. Coats, Coats Boiltex [a division], Coats, J&P Coats, John Martin’s Spool Pets, Green Oak J.C. Penny Honor Brand, Penimaid, J.C. Penney, Penney’s McCrory Chain Stores include McCrory [in some regions McCrory is called Dollar Zone],- G.C. Murphy, J.J. Newberry, TG&Y, McLellan, H.S. Kress, H.L. Green, Silver, Elmore, Pitts and Kittinger [sold bias tape and rickrick under their store name on the wrapper]. Bonita [S.H. Kress stores], Elite [Kress stores], Fifty Five, [McLellan stores, Green Star [H.L. Green], Kittinger, Lella [McLellan stores], Marlene [Newberry stores] McCoy Jones & Co. Trufold, Trueworth Narrow Fabrics Co., also Barton Bias Narrow Fabric Co. Est.

1900 Barton’s Red E Trim, Nufashond, Silhouette, Tidy Trim, Trimtex Poirer & Lindeman Fleur de Lys, Meteor [seam binding] Sears Roebuck Co. Ace, Fairloom [made by Boiltex], Hearthside, Pastoral Cloth, Phoebe Snow Talon [div of Textron] Talon Montgomery Ward Co. Ward’s Warren Featherbone Co. Est. 1883; made featherbone and whips; early 1920s expanded into notions; 1925 offered full line of fine bias tapes and developed Korseal in 1930s. Discontinued notionsin 1960s; moved to present location in Gainesville GA for production of Alexa line of baby clothes. Cloth of Gold, J&J Bluebird, J.J.

Cloth of Gold, Warren’s Standard bias tapes; rickrack and other notions.. Wm Wright & Sons 1897 company established as W&N for Wright & Nagle. Changed to Wm Wright & Sons in 1905.

1986 – Wrights sold to Newell Industries 1989 Wrights spun off along with Newell spun off with Boye Needle to a Chicago investment firm forming a limited partnership with several Wright executives. 2000 William E. Wright Lt. Partnership buys EZ International, quilting notions company 2001 Conso/Simplicity buys Wrights; name becomes Wm. Wright Co. E-Z Trim, Meteor Brand, Monarch, Print Trim, W&N, Wright’s Notes: as far as can be determined, W&N appeared on labels until 1931.

Monarch and Meteor brands appeared 1916 through 1932 and possibly beyond that. Little information can be found on these two brands. E-Z Trim, a novelty bias tape, was advertised in post-WWI booklets into the 1920s. Print Trim was marketed in the latter 1940s. The arbitrary cut-off date for this Vintage Fabric column is 1960.

To stay within the scope of this timeframe, reference materials published up to that date are the prime source of information to more accurately capture actual thoughts of the time.Joan Kiplinger is an antique doll costumer and vintage fabric addict who learned to sew on her grandmother’s treadle and has been peddling fabrications ever since.

Comments are closed.